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 Post subject: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 11:18 am 
Loremaster
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OK, this is really a stupid question, but that's what this forum is for. Does anyone know how long it takes for green stuff to dry hard enough to work on with the mini. (adding greenstuff to other parts).

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 11:34 am 
Elven Warrior
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Green Stuff is made up of two different components, the base which is Yellow and the curing component, which is Blue. If you wish to make a blend that has a longer work time and softer cure, then add more yellow to your mix, if you would like a faster and more hardened cure, add more blue to your mix.

There are also two variations in how Green Stuff is manufactured. The most common form is in the way of strips, which have the two components attached to each other, with a slightly greater proportion of yellow on the ribbon. The other way it is supplied is in two tubes of equal size of each component.

If you’re going to use the ribbon variant for sculpting or converting, you may wish to cut out the middle section of the ribbon that attaches both components. The reason for doing cutting the section out is because where the Blue/Yellow pieces meet the curing process has already taken affect, and if you started to mix your putty in this state you would end up with lump in what should be a smooth mix.

Ribbon Mixing
As stated above, cut away the joining section of the ribbon with a knife (you only need to cut a few millimetre’s either side) so that you take away the cured section, and then cut up the ribbon so have your desired amount of each colour. With damp fingers you will need to knead both parts of the putty together until you have a uniform ‘Green’ coloured mix.


Bar Putty
As the bars are separated from each other there is no need to cut anyway away, and as with the ribbon Green Stuff, you’ll need damp fingers. Take your two bars and cut away the amount of Blue putty you want. If you would like a standard consistency to your putty you will need to cut away a 1.5 ratio of yellow. Basically this means you need 50% more yellow putty to blue putty. Obviously if you need softer or harder putty add more of the particular component required as stated earlier in the article.


Green Stuff has anywhere between a 30 – 60 minute work time depending on consistency, and as a full hardened cure time of between 20 to 24 hours.

It is also advised to use either Vaseline or saliva when working with Green Stuff as it can stick to tools and your skin otherwise as the putty can be quite sticky when mixed.

(i hope this helps you) :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 12:39 pm 
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That's good advice, especially cutting out the blue/yellow join on strip green stuff.

I'd just change the saliva advice. If you're using a scalpel to sculpt, you don't want to lick it...
Also, green stuff is a bit toxic so you want to keep your fingers and tools away from your mouth until you've washed them. Actually, just keep tools away from your mouth.

I use a pot of water, just like when painting, and dip my tools into it to stop whatever I'm sculpting with sticking to them.
Hope this helps.

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:18 pm 
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Just to corraborate Chris, I always give my green stuff 24 hours to cure before sanding, filing, or cutting it back down to shape. I've tried pushing it and working on it early, and it's not a good idea. I also cut away the tiniest amount of the join between the two halves of the ribbon, but I do that after I've cut the length of ribbon I'm using for the session.

Also, start with a very small amount. It goes farther than you think, and you can always cut and mix more while the first batch is still soft, but you can't just save or use up any extra that you make. I always have a little ball of wasted green stuff that I'm trying to find a use for after I mix a batch and use it.
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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:41 pm 
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Any leftover grrenstuff you don't use on a model smooth it out on a base and when dry you can scrape lines into it giving a brickwork effect. Waste not want not :)

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 8:01 pm 
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Thanks for all the good advice, however, I have a new problem. When I place a bulb of greenstuff in gap, it looks rather plain and ugly. Now I know you should blend it into the details, the question is how. I don't have any specialist tools, just a stanley knife, brushes and toothpicks.

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:09 am 
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Telchar wrote:
Thanks for all the good advice, however, I have a new problem. When I place a bulb of greenstuff in gap, it looks rather plain and ugly. Now I know you should blend it into the details, the question is how. I don't have any specialist tools, just a stanley knife, brushes and toothpicks.


lol, you must use ur imagination. :roll: u just need to practice a little first, this is what i use

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I realy like the x-act to cast or sculpt :roll: but for some people maybe sux i dont know, try to find in ur home some tools to help u sculpting

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 7:08 am 
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artist shops usually have rubber/silicone tipped tools which really help to smoothen green stuff. they're made for shaping clay but work quite well for GS.

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 10:05 am 
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Does anyone have tips on the actual technique. I mean, I can score lines through the Greenstuff, but that does't make it resemble an Uruk Scout's arm.

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:00 am 
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this guy Ebob used to be quite active on here and he has is own website full of minis he sells but on the site are tutorials on using green stuff might be worth having a look

http://www.ebobminiatures.com/sculpting/sculpting.htm
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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:17 pm 
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There are several sculpting tutorials linked to in this thread:

http://www.one-ring.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17239

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:38 pm 
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Arm-making is a pain- personally, if you aren't adverse, I would try to find an arm about the size you are looking for, cut it down to size, then sculpt away. However, if you are not going to try that, here are a couple of other tricks I've picked up in numerous years of converting.

Rule 1- Greenstuff + superglue = instant bond. Genuinely, though the proportions take some time to figure out. I just put a drop of superglue, add a small amount of greenstuff, then another drop, sandwich in between parts, and press firmly- it is almost a guarantee, though don't try it on Ghulavar's wings (personal experience- I detest those wings). Do, of course, be careful, though this method is removable from models- it just doesn't remove nicely.

Rule 2- A thumbtack or a bead reamer- the smooth kind- is the ultimate modeling tool. Just dip it in water and sculpt to your heart's content while within the curing timetable, dipping often to renew the water (though don't have a full drop on the end of your sculpting tool).

As for an arm-specific conversion, I would get whatever you want it to hold, put on some greenstuff to make an arm, attach arm to body, prop up the item you want the model to hold, and then wait for it to cure. Unless, of course, you are like me, and impatient about waiting for it to cure, in which case, apply greestuff, sculpt, then prop it up while waiting for it to cure.

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:12 am 
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If I was going to do an arm, I would drill a hole in the shoulder and insert a piece of wire the length of the arm. I would then add a sausage of putty, then shape the muscles with a flat tip silicone clay shaper. Once set I would add the hand details with the tip of a hobby knife.

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:46 pm 
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@ukfreddybear- That is the superior way to do it- I just was unable to get my hands on a suitable drill until just this month. Finally. It is very exciting!!!

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 Post subject: Re: Green Stuff
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:35 pm 
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Well, it's all sorted now, I've got 3 coys of Feral Uruks/Uruk Reavers (ie uruk scouts with axes). I actually cut the arm up, and glued it back together in the desired pose, and then used the Greenstuff to fill the gaps left over. My complaints were, as it turned out, simpy those of inexperience, after doing +- 16 of them, I got the hang of it. The most important thing, as it turned out, to not just score in lines, but to make it go smoothly into recesses, which was what I did wrong in the beginning.Thanks for all you kind advice

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