Hey Pinky!
Sorry for the really late answer, computer crashed so I've been off for quite some time (and lost a load of files  )
Anyway...
The water I used were NOCH water-drops which had to be melted in the oven, then cooled down a bit and then poured into the area.
I made a kinda barrier of some sort of plastic rim (transparant plastic such as a CD-case...). The plastic rim melted a bit aswell though because of the heat of the waterdrops (I knew this would happen since I tried it first on a spare part of plastic, not risking to ruin the diorama). Also, the waterdrops got stick to the plastic and didn't get off anymore.
But what did help well was tin-foil, it came loose just like that.
SO, to get around this part, I wrapped the plastic rim into tin-foil, making sure having the smoothest side possible on the water-side.
I attached the barrier with the kinda clay kids play with, a really thick support of this clay behind the baririer to hold it on it's place.
I still didn't trust the heat, so found a trick to play safe again.
I used a kinda duster.... an aerosol you can use to blow dust off your keyboard, of out of a pc. You know, those dusters of which the can really gets cold after spraying for a while.
Well, the thing is, what actually none should do for safety's sake.... spray it upside down (never do that on electronica or glass or anything expensive since it can freeze-burn just anything, especially your own skin)...
I'm not sure if all duster-aerosols have this effect when holding them upside down to spray, but mine did (and got empty really quickly bcause of this).
SPraying the can upside down gives a high flow of the propellant ( which is mainly freon...), and freezes whatever you spray at.
So, I sprayed that onto the modeling-clay, to freeze it and to get really cold. I made sure the clay was like stonehard of the frost before I poured the hot water-effect in it.
Because of the frost, the plastic was cool enough to hold and not to melt. Actually it made the water-effect hard out really quickly aswell.
If you wanna play safe, and not have such a duster-aerosol, you might want to try to put the entire diorama into the freezer for a while, or maybe try to use ice into the clay or something to protect the rim from melting...
Or just make a wooden rim and wrap it into tin-foil... (why didn't I think of that earlier??).
Still, use the clay to make sure the water doesn't run out of the barrier... (it does really easily!)
After hardening for a few hours (to make sure if was completely hard), I removed the rim... It wasn't really smooth, but heating a metal spatula and wrapping it softly over the water-side, it got smooth like butter.
It's great material, the NOCH water-drops! However, I don't know what happened, but two months after the diorama was made and still in perfect condition, I left the house for holidays... WHen I turned back home, and looked at it again, the rim wasn't anymore like it was before the holidays. It looked like the water was softly flooding out again. Just for a bit, it didn't get worse since then, nothing dramatic, but a pain though. (I should have complained about this by NOCH but actually forgot...)
anyway, that's how I did it 
Oh, before you pour it in, don't forget to add some samm things, like plants, or worms, or even worm-trails on the bottom, ... like I added a little sculpted trout. It's just a small effort but finishes it off just to a little higher level (kinda sneaky eyecatcher for the better lookers..., heh)
Hope this helps
I also used a 1-compound water-effect to finish off the rims of the water, maily the edges of the water with the land around, and around the plants and reeds etc... It's even great to make small movings in the water, such as little waves 
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). TheBucklandBrewer has done something similar HERE so if Bart stumbles across this I'd appreciate some ideas on how to create some formwork and how to stop the water effects sticking to it.
