Sacrilege's Progression Log

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:30 pm

(original post deleted)
Army Backlog Progress: Updated 19/07/15

color scale_____ [][][][][][][][][][]

Total Backlog___[][][][][][][][][][]32%____305/952

Dwarf Holds____[][][][][][][][][][]1%____1/87
Eriador________[][][][][][][][][][]13%____5/39
Gondor________[][][][][][][][][][]50%____76/152
Harad/Umbar___[][][][][][][][][][]14%____15/105
Isengard_______[][][][][][][][][][]8%____11/142
Mordor________[][][][][][][][][][]35%____47/134
Misty Mountains[][][][][][][][][][]32%____26/81
Rhun__________[][][][][][][][][][]54%____20/37
Rivendell______[][][][][][][][][][]24%____9/37
Rohan_________[][][][][][][][][][]86%____78/91
Woodland Realm[][][][][][][][][][]36%____17/47

Current Work

Completed Works (click links to view)

MISTY MOUNTAINS
Balrog

MORDOR
Gothmog
Morannon Orcs

Tournament Records
2015: [3W/6L/1D][Games Played:10][Tournaments:2]
2016: [0W/4L/1D][Games Played:5][Tournaments:1]
2017: [0W/3L/1D][Games Played:4][Tournaments:1]
Total: [3W/13L/3D][Games Played:15][Tournaments:3]

that-one-elf · **Joined:** Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:02 pm **Posts:** 72

I really like your version without the flash but if you don't like either then I suggest using lamps (how ever many you need) to get the right lighting and then take picture (with flash off). and great miniatures by the way, especially Gothmog :yay:

Drumstick · **Joined:** Sat Sep 19, 2009 8:57 am **Posts:** 1223

First of all for miniatures never use flash. What you want is to use your Macro setting (small red flower symbol) and then change the settings according to lighting etc.. (e.g. my camera has settings for pictures outside, in the shade, when there's a light shinning etc...). Next make sure you have a neutral background so as this both helps the camera focus and makes the miniatures look better. Make sure you have plenty of light when taking the picture and avoid yellow bulbs as they give a strange tint. On a side note, your painting looks super - especially Gothmog, nice work.

Drum

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:07 pm

Thanks for the advive Drum. I used three lamps for the second shot, all at above angles so no wonder the bottom parts are all shaded, plus I only have yellow bulbs. Macro: check, lighting options is what I need to check out on my camera for indoor shots.

Yep and my Gothmog is nearly completed.

Dead Marsh Spectre · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:14 pm

Hey mate - its great to finally see a WIP for your stuff

If at all possible photograph outside - there really is no substitute for natural light. Lovin Shagrats skin - amazing colour!!!

Wah Wing · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:45 pm

Very nice models you have. They don't match each other but that's ok. :-D

I agree with photos taken outside. The sun is the best lamp anyone can use.

Chris GoM · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:56 pm

Great work Sacrilege, I especially like Shagrat

Will be a difficult competition this month :yay:

John Wayne · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:27 pm

Shagrat looks awesome :twisted:

. Nice models. :yay:

BilboOfTheWhiteTower · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:36 pm

Really nice job on these!

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:29 am

Thanks guys. Almost done my Shagrat and then I hope it's bright and sunny tomorrow in Montreal to take a pic. Geez first time ever that I have to rely on the weather being nice to submit my entry... :roll:

Oldman Willow · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:41 pm

I like the blue skin

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:59 pm

Eeh... that might change. I wasn't using any reference before until I just looked in my RotK journey book and saw that they do have a step by step process for his skin. Getting his skin and hair right could make or break my model since his armour looks monochrome.

BilboOfTheWhiteTower · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:38 am

I used Shadow Grey for my Shagrat's skin and Kommando Khaki for his hair...darkened each to add depth to the paint job.

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 3:54 am

Customized Mumak

Gandlaf the Grey · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:34 am

The extras look fantastic, I bet your pleased and you haven't started to paint yet.
Are you going to fill all the bad joins ? I had to do that with mine, it's a pain but worth it.
Secondly, I found the Howdah much easier to paint in its seperate parts, after this I joined it all together.

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 12:25 pm

Normally I don't care about filling in cracks, but I have no doubt that you're right that it would look nicer if I did fill it. And yes the Howdah would be easier to paint in separate pieces, this is actually my second mumakil and I'm going for a third in Dec. I'm going to start priming this bad boy up now.

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 14, 2013 4:16 am

ElfLover · **Posted:** Thu Nov 14, 2013 5:07 am

Your painting really compliments the conversions, well done

Dorthonion · **Posted:** Thu Nov 14, 2013 8:25 pm

Err - maybe I am seeing things (it wouldn't be the first time

) but in that last photo of the mumak lying on its back, I think I can see the seam where the 2 halves join, just behind the head. If it is, I recommend filling it as seams and any other unresolved flash/sprue or warped parts can ruin the look of an otherwise perfectly good model. You have put a lot of effort into the conversion work on the main tusks (which look utterly fabulous!) so spend a wee bit of time on tidy-ups - it pays huge dividends.
Oh yes - flash. If you feel you do need it, maybe use a diffuser (many come with one built in or you can clip one one or improvise one), of you can bounce it off the ceiling/wall/whatever.

Sacrilege83 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:46 am

Thanks for the tips. Thank you Elf for the compliment as well.

Personally I don't mind seems all that much. I like having my models look good but I'm not a perfectionist. To me the joints are just part of the norm of a model's structure unlike true defections where models are warped or miscast. Mould lines are part of the norm but can be annoying when running down an important detail say like a model's face. On the mumak there is clear visible mould lines on the tusks. I shaved a few of them but not all. I did close the gap a bit on the trunk connection with green stuff mostly to glue the piece easier, but the trunk is to me the most visible joint that stands out on this model judging by my first Mumak where I didn't seal it.

Sacrilege's Progression Log

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